A weekend in the company of the visionary chef, TV host, author and deep individual that is Justin Bonello led me to write this reflection, and now, in its wake, we’re sharing his eccentric way with an omelette with you. (Read my piece about that amazing weekend here.)
We were in a hurry to leave this spot in the deep Red Cederberg, as we had a lunch appointment in Camps Bay, but Justin promised he could whip them up in no time. I crept into his kitchen where he was busy rubbing a flat black carbon steel pan with the tiniest knob of butter. Hardly any butter at all, just enough to coat the pan, as if you were greasing a cake tin before putting the batter in.
This is very unlike my omelettes, swimming in a sea of foaming hot butter, and becoming a part of the end product.
The deftness with which he worked, and the speed, had me mesmerised. A single egg — yes, just one egg in an omelette — is quickly whisked with a drop of milk. The pan is heated, he pours it in and lets it run to all edges, and the filling is arranged at the centre. Just as quickly, he pulls it in from the edges and folds, folds, and folds again.
Flipping it over, it’s become a little egg parcel.
I’ve taken the liberty of interpreting the recipe, based on watching Justin and his colleagues cooking it. The quantities given are for a single omelette, so multiply by as many omelettes as you have eggs for. The whole point is for it to be an omelette experience, so those benefiting from your newfound single-egg omelette expertise should be encouraged to eat as soon as you serve them, and then demand seconds and even thirds. Don’t worry, you can make some for yourself when they’ve all eaten.
It’s brilliant. Have a go…
Justin Bonello’s amazing mini omelette, as interpreted by Tony Jackman
(Serves 1, but ask for seconds)
Ingredients
1 jumbo free range egg
A drop of full cream fresh farm milk
Seasoning (or season on the plate)
4 button mushrooms, sliced
Butter, salt, black pepper and fresh chopped thyme for the mushrooms
3 slivers of chèvre (goat’s cheese)
1 small spring onion, diced
Edible flowers for garnish
Method
Slice the mushrooms and melt a little butter in a pan. Add the mushrooms and cook until they release their juices. Season and add the herbs. Continue cooking until they are left with a moist coating of the remaining juices.
Slice some chèvre and chop the spring onions.
Whisk the egg and add a drop of milk. Season with salt and pepper. Grease a flat heavy pan with a little butter to all edges. Put it on the heat and when hot, pour in the egg.
Tilt the pan off the heat, so that the egg runs to all sides and fills the pan. It will be just a film of the single beaten egg.
Pile some mushrooms in the middle, and add some chopped spring onions and a few slices of the goat’s cheese.
Using a silicone spatula or flat-edged wooden spoon, Bring the cooked egg in from four sides, folding them over the filling. If you can pull this off, it should look like the little omelette in the picture.
Garnish with edible flowers. If feeding a table full of people, enjoy the process of making them each one omelette at a time, making sure that you have enough eggs and filling over to make them a second, or even a third. DM
More at Red Cederberg Escapes online.
Tony Jackman is Galliova Food Writer 2023, jointly with TGIFood columnist Anna Trapido.
Order Tony’s book, foodSTUFF, here.
Follow Tony Jackman on Instagram @tony_jackman_cooks.
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TGIFood
Lekker Brekker Monday: Justin Bonello’s amazing mini omelettes
On the last morning of my trip to Justin Bonello’s extraordinary Cederberg hideaway, he made us the omelettes he had promised us the night before. I’ve never had an omelette quite like it.